The Covered Passages of Paris: Step Into Another Era
Tucked between busy streets and hidden behind ordinary-looking entrances are the covered passages of Paris, elegant glass-roofed arcades that offer a glimpse into another era.
Most of these passages were built during the first half of the 19th century, before Baron Haussmann transformed Paris with the wide boulevards we know today. They were shopping centers, gathering places, shortcuts, and entertainment venues all rolled into one.
Today, more than twenty covered passages survive, mostly on the Right Bank. Some are elegant and beautifully restored; others are a little worn around the edges. That variety is part of their charm.
Why Were the Passages Built?
Imagine Paris around 1800. Many streets were narrow, muddy and poorly lit. Walking and shopping in town—especially in rain or winter weather—was not always pleasant.
The new covered passages offered something very different. Shoppers could stroll beneath glass roofs protected from the weather, look into attractive shop windows, meet friends, eat in restaurants and cafés, and enjoy an outing without dealing with the I of the streets. (Like an early version of a mall!)
In their day, these passages weren’t quaint reminders of the past. They were modern.
Their popularity began to decline later in the 19th century as Haussmann’s new boulevards changed the city and department stores offered Parisians a newer kind of shopping experience, with large department stores like Printemps and Galerie Lafayette. Fortunately, a number of the old passages survived., and they’re worth a visit!
Here are some of the best ones to visit today.
Passage des Panoramas
2nd arrondissement
Passage des Panoramas
Built in 1799, Passage des Panoramas is considered one of the earliest surviving covered passages in Paris. Its name came from enormous panoramic paintings once displayed in circular buildings nearby—popular entertainment long before movies existed.
Today, Passage des Panoramas still feels pleasantly old-fashioned. Restaurants and cafés sit alongside tiny shops specializing in stamps, postcards, coins and other collectibles.
Rather than being perfectly polished, it has a slightly cluttered, lived-in atmosphere, with old signs and storefronts competing for attention beneath the glass roof. That’s exactly what makes it fun to explore.
Galerie Vivienne
2nd arrondissement, near the Palais-Royal
If Passage des Panoramas is quirky, Galerie Vivienne is elegant.
Built in 1823, Galerie Vivienne was designed by architect François-Jacques Delannoy and became a prestigious shopping destination because of its location near the Palais-Royal and the commercial center of Paris.
Look down as well as up when you visit. The gallery is famous for its mosaic floors, neoclassical decoration and beautiful glass roof.
Today, you’ll find boutiques, restaurants, wine shops, tearooms and one of its longtime attractions—an antique bookshop. Galerie Vivienne remains one of the most beautiful covered passages in Paris. (I wasn’t able to get a photo, but believe me, it’s gorgeous! You should visit for yourself!)
Nearby Galerie Colbert, also dating from the 1820s, is worth a quick look if it is open, particularly for its striking rotunda.
Galerie Véro-Dodat
1st arrondissement, near the Louvre
Another of my favorites is Galerie Véro-Dodat, built in 1826. It connects the area between the Palais-Royal and Les Halles and is one of the more sophisticated passages.
Its black-and-white flooring, decorative ceilings and traditional storefronts give it a formal, almost theatrical feeling.
Today, the gallery contains upscale shops, art and decorative businesses, restaurants, and fashion boutiques, including Christian Louboutin.
Because it is only a short walk from the Louvre and Palais-Royal, Véro-Dodat is especially easy to add to a day of sightseeing.
Passage Jouffroy
9th arrondissement
Built in 1836, Passage Jouffroy represents a later generation of Paris passages, with extensive use of iron and glass.
It remains one of the livelier passages today, with restaurants, cafés and unusual shops. It also contains the entrance to the famous Musée Grévin, Paris’s wax museum, as well as the charming Hôtel Chopin.
Passage Jouffroy
One of the nicest things about Jouffroy is its location. Passage des Panoramas sits almost directly across Boulevard Montmartre, while Passage Verdeau continues nearby in the other direction.
That means you can easily visit three passages in one walk.
Passage Verdeau
9th arrondissement
Continue north from Jouffroy and you’ll reach Passage Verdeau, built in 1847.
Its tall glass roof makes the passage unusually bright, illuminating shops selling antiques, old books, vintage postcards, photographs and collectible cameras.
Verdeau is quieter than some of the better-known passages, but that is part of its attraction. It feels like the kind of place where you might stumble across an unexpected treasure.
Passage du Grand-Cerf
2nd arrondissement, near rue Montorgueil
Passage du Grand-Cerf, created in 1825, stands out for its soaring architecture. Its glass roof rises nearly 12 meters—about 39 feet—above the passage.
Today it has a more contemporary feel than some of the antique-filled arcades. Its shops specialize in crafts, jewelry, furniture, lighting and design.
It is also close to lively rue Montorgueil, making the two easy to combine for an afternoon walk.
An Easy Covered-Passage Walk
If you don’t have time to search out several passages across Paris, concentrate on the Grands Boulevards area.
Start with Passage des Panoramas, cross Boulevard Montmartre into Passage Jouffroy, and then continue into Passage Verdeau. The three form an easy sequence and each has a slightly different personality.
You can browse, stop for coffee or lunch, and simply enjoy wandering.
Tips for Visiting the Paris Passages
Passage Vendôme: A Typical Entrance
The passages themselves are generally free to enter, although individual businesses keep their own hours. Many shops are closed on Sundays, so weekday or Saturday visits are usually better if you want to browse.
Rainy weather is actually a perfect time to explore them—you’ll be walking under cover while seeing a part of Paris that many visitors miss. Or in winter if you want to duck into a warm, beautiful spot.
The appeal of these old arcades is to do what Parisians did nearly two centuries ago: flâner—to stroll, browse, look around and see what catches your eye.
For a little while, modern Paris disappears beyond the glass roof, and the city of the 19th century doesn’t seem very far away at all.
