Arles, France: From Ancient Rome to Van Gogh

Arles, France: From Ancient Rome to Van Gogh

 

Arles, France is one of those southern French cities where layers of history seem to sit right on top of one another. You can walk through a Roman arena, admire a medieval church, stand in places painted by Vincent van Gogh, and then settle into a café on a sunny Provençal square—all within a compact historic center.

Located on the Rhône River in Provence, Arles also makes a natural jumping-off point for exploring the wild landscapes of the Camargue just to the south. Whether you come for a day or stay longer, there is plenty to see.

Journey into Roman Arles

Arles was an important Roman city, known then as Arelate, and its Roman and Romanesque monuments are now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among the oldest are the amphitheatre, a Roman theatre, and underground cryptoportiques.

The most impressive place to begin is the Arles Amphitheatre, often simply called Les Arènes. Built during the Roman era, this enormous arena dominates the historic center and is still used for artistic events today.

 

Not far away is the Roman Theatre, another reminder of how important Arles was in antiquity.

For something a little different, descend into the Cryptoportiques, a network of underground galleries that once supported the Roman forum. You can also visit the remains of the Baths of Constantine, dating from the fourth century.

Don’t miss: Even if you don’t visit every Roman site, make the amphitheatre your priority. It’s very central in the old town, so you’ll probably see it without trying!

Travel tip: You can get combination tickets and passes covering several monuments and museums, which can be worthwhile if you plan to visit several sites. (where)

 

Follow in Van Gogh’s Footsteps

Vincent van Gogh arrived in Arles in 1888 and spent a little over a year here, producing some of his most recognizable paintings.

You won’t find a traditional Van Gogh museum filled with his paintings, however. Instead, part of the fun is walking through town and finding the locations that inspired him.

At Place du Forum, look for the setting associated with Café Terrace at Night. Walk toward the Rhône and you’ll enter the landscape of Starry Night Over the Rhône. The Espace Van Gogh, once the hospital where Van Gogh was treated, has a courtyard recreated to resemble the garden he painted.

Another atmospheric stop is Les Alyscamps, an ancient Roman and medieval necropolis lined with sarcophagi, which Van Gogh also painted.

For art lovers, the Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles presents changing exhibitions exploring Van Gogh’s influence and his connections with other artists.

Travel tip: Look for the marked Van Gogh walking route around town linking many of the places he painted.

 

Wander Through the Old Town

Leave time simply to wander the town’s narrow alleys and atmospheric corners. Arles isn’t a town to race through. Rather, savor the Provencal setting.

At Place de la République, you’ll find the Hôtel de Ville, a Roman obelisk and the impressive Church of Saint-Trophime. Its Romanesque portal is especially beautiful, and the adjoining cloister dates partly from the 12th century. Saint-Trophime is considered one of Provence’s important Romanesque monuments.

From here, explore the surrounding pedestrian streets and squares, stopping for a coffee or lunch along the way.

 

Visit the Provençal Market

If your visit falls on a Saturday morning, you’ll enjoy the Arles market…Provence at its most colorful. Stalls sell local produce, cheeses, olives, breads, herbs, meats, and other regional specialties, along with clothing and household goods.

Markets are always a favorite way to immerse myself in everyday French life. Browsing, people-watching, and picking up a souvenir all make a memorable outing.

 

Don’t Forget Modern Arles

Arles may be famous for ancient history and Van Gogh, but it is also an important center for contemporary art and photography.

The most visible symbol is LUMA Arles, an arts and cultural complex occupying a former railway site. Its centerpiece is Frank Gehry’s distinctive tower, which looks strikingly different from the stone buildings of old Arles.

Even if you don’t have time for an exhibition, parts of the complex—including the landscaped park, panoramic terraces and portions of the tower—are free to enter. Exhibition spaces require tickets.

 

A Gateway to the Camargue

Just south of Arles, the Rhône divides as it approaches the Mediterranean, creating the vast wetlands of the Camargue. This unusual landscape is known for its salt marshes, rice fields, flamingos, black Camargue bulls and famous white horses. You could easily make the Camargue a separate day trip—or even a separate vacation—but Arles is a convenient base for discovering it.

 

Practical Tips for Visiting Arles

The historic center is compact enough to see the major sights by foot. One full day is enough to cover the highlights, although an overnight stay gives you more time to discover deeper layers of the culture and town. Two or more nights would also allow you to add an excursion into the Camargue.

Spring and fall are especially appealing times to visit, while summer brings hotter weather along with festivals, exhibitions and events.

Before your trip, check current monument hours and admission information through the Arles Tourist Office, since opening schedules can change seasonally.

 

Why Visit Arles?

Few towns in France combine so many different experiences in such a small area. In one or two days, you can “visit” ancient Rome, appreciate medieval architecture, follow in Van Gogh’s footsteps, browse a Provençal market and enjoy a café overlooking a centuries-old square.

And with the Camargue waiting just beyond town, Arles is much more than a history stop. It’s an excellent twist on your Provence itinerary.

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Photo Credits:

Theatre column by Chabe01, Luma: Creative Commons

(Others by K. B. Oliver)