Pau: A Château City in the Pyrénées   

Pau:   A Château City in the Pyrénées

 

Pau, a southwestern city with a royal château at one end of town and the Pyrénées rising beyond the other, Pau (pronounced Poe) enjoys one of the most dramatic settings of any city in southwestern France. It sits on the Gave de Pau River, 100 miles long.

Pau was one stop on my recent southwestern road trip through France in June. In this post I’ll take a closer look at this lively town situated on

several altitudes! Meaning there’s a lower town and an upper town to explore.

 

A Few Interesting Facts About Pau

 

First, you might not know…

 

• Pau Was the Birthplace of Henri IV, a favorite King of the French and the first monarch of the Bourbon family line, which continued for 213 years.
• Pau became a fashionable winter resort in the mid-1800 for wealthy ex-pats. See their stylish homes when you visit!
• The first French flights by balloon and airplane took place here. The famous Wright brothers collaborated on some flights.

Tips for Visiting Pau

 

Spring and Fall are ideal times to visit Pau. Summer is good as well, but more likely to be hot.

Pau is walkable, so once you park or get off the train, you can explore on foot.

If it’s a cloudy day, you might not see the Pyrénées clearly. from the Boulevard des Pyrénées.

 

Things to See and Do in Pau

 

1. Visit the Château de Pau

The Château de Pau is the city’s essential historic attraction, with richly furnished royal rooms, decorative arts, tapestries, gardens, and courtyards. Near the castle are narrow streets adjoining the historic neighborhood.

 

2. Walk the Boulevard des Pyrénées

The Boulevard des Pyrénées isa must-see promenade extending just over a mile (1.9 km) between the Château District and Parc Beaumont.

On one side are cafés, terraces, squares, hotels, and Belle Époque façades. On the other is an expansive view over the Jurançon hills and the Pyrénées. . On a clear day, the view is spectacular.

 

3. Ride the Pau Funicular

Pau’s funicular connects the lower town and railway station area with the Boulevard des Pyrénées. Those who arrive by train will head to the funicular to access the upper town, which is the main part of town.

The short ride is useful fun, and will save you from a steep climb! The funicular has operated since 1908 and has become one of the city’s best-known landmarks.

 

4. Explore the Château Quarter and Old Town

The streets around the château contain some of Pau’s most atmospheric architecture. Visitors can wander through pedestrian lanes, small squares, passages, and streets lined with cafés and shops.

Points to look for include:

• Rue du Château
• Place de la Déportation
• The former Parliament of Navarre
• Traditional Béarnaise buildings
• Views of the Château from surrounding streets
• Rue Joffre, one of the principal pedestrian shopping streets

The district reflects Pau’s history as the capital of the region and an important center of the former kingdom of Navarre.

 

5. Relax in Parc Beaumont

At the opposite end of the Boulevard des Pyrénées from the château, Parc Beaumont gives you a peaceful green space to relax. It was redesigned in an English landscape style in the late 19th century. Some of its trees are more than a century old.

Beside the park stands the Palais Beaumont, a reminder of Pau’s years as a fashionable winter resort. You’ve returned to the Belle Epoche! The building once served visitors drawn to the city’s mild climate and elegant social life.

 

6. Visit Les Halles de Pau

Les Halles is Pau’s covered food market and one of the best places to experience everyday life in the city.

Visitors can browse produce, cheeses, meats, baked goods, wine, and regional products. Have lunch, tapas, or a glass of wine at one of the many food counters and casual dining areas. Regional foods include Ossau-Iraty sheep’s-milk cheese, Jurançon wine (sweet or dry), and Garbure, a hearty southwestern soup. Of course, southwestern France is known for duck dishes, such as cassoulet.

 

7. Visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts

Pau’s Fine Arts Museum occupies an Art Deco building from the 1930s. Its collection spans European art from roughly the 15th through the 20th centuries.

One of its best-known works is Edgar Degas’s The Cotton Office in New Orleans. The collection also includes Flemish, Dutch, Italian, Spanish, and French paintings.

 

8. Walk Through the Hédas District

The Hédas district lies in a former ravine below the historic center. Once a neglected area, it has been transformed into a landscaped pedestrian route.

Paths, bridges, play areas, public art, and views of the upper town make it an enjoyable walk. It also illustrates Pau’s unusual geography: much of the historic city stands above the river valley on an elevated terrace.

 

9. Church of Saint-Martin

The neo-Gothic Church of Saint-Martin, built in the 19^th century, stands near the château. Its spire is visible from many parts of town.

 

Taste Jurançon Wine

 

The vineyard-covered hills of Jurançon begin just outside Pau. The appellation is especially known for white wines made from local grape varieties such as Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng.

 

Both dry and sweet wines are produced. Several wineries around Jurançon, Gan, and neighboring villages welcome visitors for tours or tastings, usually by reservation. The vineyards also provide beautiful views over Pau and toward the mountains.

 

Enjoy Pau’s Café and Restaurant Life

 

Here are some  hotspots for eating or having a drink:

• Boulevard des Pyrénées
• Place Royale
• The château quarter
• Rue des Cordeliers
• The area around Les Halles

 

Outdoor Activities

Walk or Cycle Along the Gave de Pau

The Gave de Pau is the river flowing below the city. Cyclists can follow routes toward Jurançon and the surrounding foothills. (Or rent an electric bicycle for vineyard hills!)

Whitewater Sports

One of Pau’s outdoor attractions is an urban whitewater center beside the Gave River.

The Parc Aquasports offers activities such as rafting, kayaking, and hydrospeed.

 

Explore the Pyrenees

Pau is often described as a gateway to the Pyrénées. The mountains are close enough for day trips, although the most dramatic valleys and hiking areas require a car or organized excursion. Here are some ideas:

• The Ossau Valley
• Laruns
• Eaux-Bonnes
• Gourette
• The Col d’Aubisque
• The Pic du Midi d’Ossau area
• The pilgrimage town of Lourdes

 

Easy Day Trips from Pau

 

Jurançon and Gan

These nearby communities provide vineyards, wine tastings, countryside scenery, and views toward the Pyrénées.

Lescar

Lescar is a historic town just outside Pau. Its Romanesque cathedral contains the tombs of members of the royal family of Navarre. The elevated old town also offers views across the surrounding countryside.

Oloron-Sainte-Marie

Oloron-Sainte-Marie lies at the meeting point of mountain valleys southwest of Pau. Its historic churches and riverside setting make it a pleasant half-day or full-day excursion.

Lourdes

The Catholic pilgrimage destination, Lourdes, is approximately an hour from Pau by car or train, making it possible to visit as a day trip.

 

As you can see, Pau merits a detour if you’re driving through southwestern France. My book, Hit the Road in France: 9 Road Trip Itineraries Across France contains more details on the city of Pau and complete driving directions for getting there, and for the complete southwestern road trip.