Vannes
The Gallo-Roman town of Vannes was the second to last stop on my Brittany Road Trip. A highly recommended stop! Of course, you can always extend your trip further west, if you have extra time. Check out this blogpost for ideas on destinations.
Vannes is perched on the southern coast of the Brittany peninsula. There’s plenty of water around, as well as a lively Old Town with ramparts to walk along. I’d never been to Vannes, but I was thankful I’d included it in the trip.
The medium size of the town adds energy and buzz. About 50,000 people live there, stretching out to areas beyond the wall. Vannes is nestled in the curve along the Gulf of Morbihan on the southern coast of the Brittany peninsula. This medieval harbor town is full of brightly painted historic 15th-century buildings and has a lively market and port. It’s quite beautiful, as well as fun!
A Walking Tour…or Three!
Start at the Tourist Bureau, located alongside the port at Quai Tabarly, just after the Kiosque Espace Culturel building. They can give you a fun little map with drawings of the places to see along with three walking circuits you can take to get the most from the Old Town. They’ll also provide tickets for museums, boat rides, and guided visits, if you want.
The first circuit covers the Medieval sector and its stunning historic buildings. The second covers “fortifications”, such as medieval gates, the city wall, towers, and the medieval prison, Porte Prison. Lastly, you can tour a neighborhood called Saint Patern, northeast of the walled town. Eglise Saint-Patern from the 18th century is there, along with the Préfecture, a government building housed in a lovely building from the 1860s, a former convent.
One of the highlights is simply walking around to appreciate the many half-timbered houses, remnants of the 15th and 16th centuries. One such example is in Place Henri IV, with a cluster of such homes, with Cathedrale Saint-Pierre looming just behind.
Place Henri IV
The city wall of the Old Town doesn’t form a complete circle, since portions of the wall were demolished. The most complete areas lie on the eastern and northern sides. You can walk on top of the ramparts to some extent. To the east, you’ll discover the Tour du Connétable, the highest of all the towers, and the best preserved, named after the 15th-century Duke of Brittany.
Then, a bit further south along the wall are Les Lavoirs, an outdoor washing area on the canal, built between 1817 and 1821. Currently, they’re part of a green area where festivals are held during the year.
Medieval Wash House
The lively Place Gambetta faces the port and hosts outdoor cafes and restaurants. It is easily recognizable by the imposing 17th century Porte Saint Vincent, a grand entrance to the Old Town. You can soak in the animated ambiance of the port as you dine on a terrace on a summer evening…perhaps resting your feet after trekking from one end of the Old Town to the other. Follow that with a stroll by the marina or the Promenade de la Garenne alongside the 13th-century medieval ramparts to the east.
Speaking of dining, Vannes is also a food mecca, with the best restaurants just outside the city walls.
Soak in the sun and listen to the waves with a boat ride in the Gulf du Morbihan. You can enjoy the boat ride for a couple of hours, or you can get off at one of two islands, the Ile aux Moines, with coastal paths, beaches, restaurants, and even megalithic stones. The smaller island is Ile d’Arz, with peaceful beaches and walking paths. Buy tickets at the Tourist Bureau near the port.
Make sure not to miss the Place des Lices, where the bustling open market takes place every Wednesday and Saturday, from 8 am to 1:30 pm. The covered market, Halles des Lices, is on the next street.
Then there is the historical Cohue Market from the 13th century, the oldest in Dinan. Le Cohue is no longer a market but has been a fine arts museum since 1982. It is across from Cathedrale Saint-Pierre, worth a visit in itself.
Surely, there’s more to see than space will allow. (For example, a cooking class at L’Atelier Gourmand, or another foodie experience at the covered market Aux Halles de Lices.) You’ll make plenty more discoveries of your own!
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