Bonnieux, Provence
Bonnieux is a picturesque and hilly Provence village in the Luberon area, a worthy addition to your Provence vacation or road trip.
Up to the 19th century, it was a prestigious town when the region belonged to the Pope. You can see signs of that prosperous period in homes from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.
Now it’s well-loved for a Provence charm destination, but with plenty to see. It was one of the filming locations of the 2006 movie, A Good Year, produced by Ridley Scott (written by Peter Mayle.) The Château la Canorgue was one of the locations, though currently, it is strictly a family-owned vineyard specializing in award-winning regional wine. Wine enthusiasts can visit for a tasting. Also for wines, don’t miss the Cave de Bonnieux (north of the village), a cooperative of several wineries in the area.
If you’re touring the Luberon area (east of Avignon), it’s helpful to know that Bonnieux is located between Lourmarin and Gordes, both must-see stops on your trip.
First Stop in Bonnieux
Old Town Wandering After you climb the 13th-century ramparts, you’ll want to wander the hilly (some steep) streets of the village, admiring the well-preserved Provence beauty. It has been classified as one of France’s most beautiful villages for good reason. Though it’s a village, you’ll still find plenty of restaurants, cafés, and places to stay. It’s gotten popular, but less touristy than its famous neighbors, Gordes and Roussillon.
Stop at the tourist information office to get the layout of the town, a map, and some suggestions for visits. In addition, you’ll see panels around the town explaining the history.
What to See in Bonnieux
The 12th-century church at the summit of the village is called L’Eglise Haute, or La Vieille Eglise (the old church.) It was built in Gothic and Romanesque styles. A newer one was built in the lower part of the village in the 19th century, but you shouldn’t miss the views from the old one, used little, since the other one is newer and easier to access. Still, you can go inside and see it.
If you climb the 86 steps of a stone staircase to the old church, you can see both Gordes and Roussillon in the distance, as well as Mount Ventoux and the Mont de Vaucluse. There’s an orientation table as well.
Le Jardin de la Louve is a lovely Mediterranean garden, and it was the winner of the “Remarkable Gardens” recognition.
Architecture You’ll see impressive homes from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, such as the Hôtel de Rouvil, home of the Bonnieux family (18th century.)
Bakery Museum (Musee de la Boulangerie) This unique museum is housed in a building that contained a bread oven in use from the 1600s to 1920. It covers practices and tools of break-making throughout history. (temporarily closed.)
La Tour Philippe is a square tower begun but not finished by Philippe Audibert, an artist who wanted to build a tower tall enough to see the Mediterranean (which is not that close to the Luberon!) It’s five stories tall and you can see it from far away.
Weekly Market Don’t miss the energy of the Friday market, which takes place from 9 to 1 pm. There you’ll find produce, crafts, and lots of market excitement.
Friday Market
Biking You can rent a regular or electric bike at Sun E Bikes in Bonnieux. The area is great for hiking, horseback riding, and tennis.
For lunch with a view, try the Terrace de Bonnieux!
Around Bonnieux
Pont Julien, 3 B.C.
Pont Julien is a Roman bridge about 3 miles north of Bonnieux (5 km) which is in remarkable condition, considering it was built in 3 B.C.! It’s impressive to see, with three arches.
Lavender fields Nearby, you’ll see lavender fields, though they won’t be in full bloom until late June to late August. In nearby Coustellet, visit the lavender museum, Le Musee de la Lavande. There you’ll see real lavender fields, and also learn about what is made with it. 276 Route de Gordes, Coustellet (a village.)
Other nearby towns worth visiting
Ménerbes (made famous by the book A Year in Provence) 6 miles (10 km)
Lacoste 3 miles (5 km)
Lourmarin about 7 miles (13 km)
Goult about 2.5 miles(8 km)
And of course, Gordes and Roussillon. Along with Bonnieux, these three are known as the Golden Triangle.
There’s plenty to see in this area for your road trip vacation!
