Dinan: A Treasure Revisited

The Brittany town of Dinan so impressed me that I posted on this town twice over the years. Well, it’s time for an updated post, since I just visited again this year. (My third visit… What does that tell you?)

Although Brittany’s verdant hills, valleys, and peaceful landscapes unfold all around, my favorite destinations take me to towns and villages. They’re so picturesque, they require a visit! One of these is Dinan, about 4 hours by train from Paris, and around an hour from St. Malo. I headed directly from Saint-Malo to Dinan on my most recent visit, and it was a short drive. If you’re already in one of these places, I strongly suggest visiting Dinan.

In Dinan, there is a lot to see and do. You’ll make memories here, climbing medieval ramparts, passing by 700-year-old buildings, eating local specialties like crêpes and

Kouign-amann (a sweet treat you don’t want to miss!)

Highlights of Dinan

This lovely walled town is perched over the Rance River. The flavor is decidedly medieval, as the worn ramparts surrounding the town testify. You can clamber along some of these walls and bridges, and after that stroll on narrow, cobbled streets past shops, crêperies, and half-timbered buildings. The tops of some of these structures are bigger than the bottom, since in those days people were taxed based on the street-level size of the dwelling.

The first thing you’ll see as you approach the southern part of the walled town is a fortress. Built in the late 14^th century, the Château de Dinan is more of a fortress than a castle. It was commissioned by the Duke of Brittany, Jean IV, following a period of exile. He wanted to reinforce his position and power with this impressive structure. Later in the 18^th century, it was a prison for a while.

You can visit inside and enter the world of a medieval fortress, including a banquet room, a kitchen, and a chapel. In July and August on Wednesdays from 9 pm, you can visit areas in the castle that aren’t usually open to the public with the aid of a flashlight for a more atmospheric experience! A fortress by candlelight!

As you move past the fortress and into the heart of the Old Town, you’ll see a big clock tower, impressive in itself, but also in the hub of things. The center of the Old Town is the Place des Merciers. The tourist office is at 6 rue de l’Horloge in a 16^th-century building.

They can provide you with a map of the town that has color-coded paths. The “Tour de l’Horloge”, or clock tower, was built in the late 15^th century as a testimony of the prosperity of that period. Climb up the Tour de l’Horloge and take photos of the town spread out below. The tourist office can give you additional ideas to get the most out of your visit.

The best part of visiting Dinan is simply covering the town on foot from one end to the other. You may even be compelled to stay several days. You’ll find plenty to do! Stroll down the cobbled (and a bit steep) Rue Jerzual to reach the Rance River. On the way down, you’ll pass the Maison du Gouverneur, one of the oldest buildings in town. It’s open to the public for visits. By the way, as you descend the road, several benches are at your disposal.

Once you reach the bottom of this path, the view of the Rance River will be your reward. Small boats bob on the scenic river, and several eateries line its banks. You can rest from your descent down the steep Jerzual then have lunch or a drink (or take a river cruise.) Breathe in the calm tranquility of the river valley and watch boats chug or sail by. You can cross over the bridge to explore the other side or hike up the nearby hillside to get great views.

Dinan is known for its huge open-air market, which is called “an institution” and is one of the best markets in the region. Head to the Place du Guesclin and Place du Champs Clos on Thursday morning from 8:30 to 1 pm. Artisans and local producers introduce you to Brittany specialties, local crafts, and fresh regional produce. It can get crowded on Thursdays, so you may even want to stay overnight the day before.

More Things to Do in Dinan

St. Malo Church on Grande Rue is a 15th-century Breton church in the Gothic flamboyant style. (Northeast part of town.)

The Saint Sauveur Basilica in the eastern part of town, looks more like a castle than a cathedral, in Roman and Gothic styles. It’s worth taking a close look at the outside, which is simply beautiful. Inside are paintings and stained glass, and a monument containing the heart of Bertrand du Guesclin, a 14^th-century Breton knight and military commander during the Hundred Years War.

A River cruise: You can take a boat ride on the Rance River with a guided boat tour or a rent-your-own experience. You can even travel to Dinan by boat from Dinard or St. Malo, both on the north coast.

If you like World War II history, especially in Brittany, visit the moving tribute offered by The 39-45 Museum, featuring 6,000 pieces, mostly artillery. It is located in the nearby town of Lehon. Their website explains this unusual museum well: It “…offers you a real dive into the military universe of the Second World War through an impressive private collection of over 20 period objects, all authentic and remarkably preserved.” .Then the Chateau Tour de Coetquen covers some military history along with the lifestyles of the wealthy.

Allow a minimum of a full day, but two to three is much better to see everything, hike and eat your way through history, and connect to the medieval ambiance.