The town of Uzès, to the west of  Avignon (in the Gard department) is less known by tourists, but appreciated by many. Artists, Parisians, and travelers in the know come here to enjoy a smaller slice of the Provence life without the crowds.

It’s a 42-minute drive west from Avignon on the N100 route. Along the way, you’ll pass an ancient treasure, Le Pont du Gard, a first-

century Roman aqueduct. It’s a worthy stop along the way. If you stop there, you’ll travel only 16 more minutes to reach Uzes.

Uzès

This 2000-year-old town is home to 8,000 residents and was fully revived by the French government about 50 years ago. Its smaller size might be refreshing after the bustle of Avignon. Though less known by foreigners, it has been discovered by well-to-do Parisiens and artists. Despite this, you’ll find it less touristy than many other towns in Provence. Some say it’s where you find the good life.

Historically, the Romans used to send water through Uzès from the Pont du Garde aqueduct to the town of Nîmes, to the south.

A ring road follows the former city wall and encircles the town. As you drive, you’ll see parking lots along the way. There is also an underground lot in the town with plenty of space. The Tourist Bureau is on Place Albert 1er, in case you’d like to start there (and that’s always my recommendation!)

Things to Do: The Old Town

Once inside the Old Town, you’ll find the city is very walkable. Most of what you’ll want to see is in the historic city center. Tiny, cobbled alleyways provide many photo opportunities, including ancient archways and fountains. You can wander this maze for hours, then head back to La Place aux Herbes for lunch or shopping. This historic square encircled by lovely medieval architecture will draw you with its energy. The day I was there, an arts market filled the square with beauty and animation. Outdoor dining at lunch or dinner is easy to find under umbrellas or sweeping trees.

Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days at the Place aux Herbes, which is the main square. It’s charmingly framed by arched arcades, cafés, shops, and restaurants. There’s an evening market on Tuesdays from June to September. If you prefer to visit Uzès as a day trip, you can get there easily from either Avignon or Nimes. From Avignon, take bus #115 or drive there in under an hour.

The Cathédrale St. Théodont was originally built in 1090 but was destroyed several times. It was updated in 1652, and a peaceful garden was added. La Tour Fenestrelle Bell Tower is the only bell tower in France in the Italian Romanesque style and the only round one, alongside the Gothic façade. The tower is beautiful but sadly, it’s all that’s left of the earlier 11^th century castle. The Church’s 17^th century organ gives concerts in the summer. Another church, Eglise St. Etienne, from the 1300s, has an unusual and interesting façade, as well as a bell tower.

The Uzes Castle

The Uzès castle (next to the Cathedral) is called The Duchy because it was a residence for dukes up until recently. It was France’s first ducal castle. You’ll see a mixture of architectural styles spanning centuries in this extensive structure. A guided visit to the apartments and 800-year-old cellars plus the tower costs 22€ for adults. (Price is reduced on Saturdays.) For kids 12 to 16, the cost is 15€. For the tower only, 14€. Group rates available for 12 people. Kind of pricey, but you might find it’s worth it for the view from the tower and the rich history displayed inside.

The Medieval Gardens (Jardin Médiéval d’Uzès), established in the 12th century, presents over 450 species of plants, and remnants of a 13-th century château. During the tour, you can see how the plants were used medicinally during the Middle Ages. Flowers and plants are at their best in the spring and fall, but the grounds are lovely anytime. Morning guided visits by reservation are 8€. Information on translations is available at the entrance. Climb the King’s Tower (100 steps) to get a wonderful panoramic view. (Note: The tower isn’t ideal for people with claustrophobia!)

Then for the young at heart, visit the Haribo Candy Museum for a tour and a couple of treats.

Nearby Uzès

If you’d like to go off the beaten path around Uzes, here are some ideas.

As I mentioned, Le Pont du Gard is only about 25 minutes away going toward Avignon, if you haven’t already been there. It’s worth a visit to see the amazing first-century structure and how it was built.

Nimes is a 40-minute drive to the south along winding mountain roads providing stunning scenery. Once in Nimes, view some of the best-preserved Roman structures.

Three Nearby Villages

About an hour north of Uzes is the village of La Roque-sur-Cèze, a medieval village classified as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France (official designation.) Perched on a steep hill, it overlooks the Cèze River. The castle and bridge (with 11 arches) are from the 12^th century, though other structures, such as the washhouse and church, are from the 19^th century. It’s very picturesque and has waterfalls nearby, les Cascades de Sautadet, just below the village.

Saint Quentin-la-Poterie is a nearby village (northeast of Uzès)  known for pottery shops, workshops, and history. There’s even a Mediterranean Pottery Museum. You shouldn’t miss it if you love pottery.

Moussac: In this hilltop village, you can visit the restored chateau, a Protestant temple, and a waterfront area with a footbridge. Take a walking tour around the old village, and have a look at the first licorice factory, in operation from 1836 to the late 20^th century.

As you can tell, there’s a lot to do in this region. Enough for a road trip, or at least a few unforgettable days!