Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of my favorite places on the Mediterranean. It’s just two stops on the train from Nice, so it’s perfect for a day trip. All of the wonderful day trips possible from Nice are also near Villefranche.
For a longer stay, there’s still plenty to do. The town is very close to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Then there’s Monaco to the east, and Menton just a few miles beyond that. Keep going, and you’ll head into Italy!
It would be easy to spend a few days or a week there soaking in the beauty of the multicolored buildings (some dating back to the 13th century), browsing in the Old Town, or lounging on the long curved beach.
A Place to Wander, a Place to Swim
Villefranche means “free city”, and was a tax-free zone in the time of Charles II. It has been the setting of movies (An Affair to Remember, The Bucket List.)
Though some people refer to it as a village, it’s big enough to wander through mazes of alleys and up and down stairways.
The first thing you’ll notice is how colorful everything is, from the orange, yellow, and pink buildings to the flowerboxes everywhere. The second thing you notice is the hills, one reason why much of the town is pedestrian only. That alone makes Villefranche peaceful and as well as photogenic.
About the Water…
Villefranche-sur-Mer has one of the deepest natural harbors on the Mediterranean. Along with the general depth, about 1 nautical mile from the coast is an underwater cavern plunging 1700 feet, to the fascination of oceanographers.
Diving and snorkeling are popular in the Villefranche Bay. You can take a speed boat ride from Nice to go snorkeling if you’re ready for an adventure!
The Plage des Marinières is the long beach that faces the bay and follows the curved coastline. The Plage de la Darse is farther west, near the Port Royal de la Darse. The train lets you off right near the beach.
The Port Royal de la Darse was built in 16th century, but elevated to a royal status to fight pirates in the 18th century. There you’ll see a lighthouse and have a fabulous view of the whole port and marina.
Visiting Villefranche-sur-Mer
There’s plenty to do in Villefranche aside from the beaches. Here are some highlights.
Visit the Old Town. You can’t miss this. The main road is Rue du Poilu, where you’ll find restaurants and shops. Keep winding all through the Old Town, though, for more interesting discoveries. You can climb up to the top part of the town to reach the Citadelle and get great views of the bay and the city.
The Citadelle, built in 1557, is a fortified fortress and historical monument. Since the 1980s, it houses city hall, a cultural center, an event space, and has several interesting free museums including those featuring modern art and ceramics. Though the museums are currently closed for renovation, you can still visit the fortress, La Chapel Saint Elme, which exposes impressive art, some public gardens, a rose garden, and an open-air theater.
Rue de l’Eglise will take you to the top of the town, where you’ll have the best views.
More to See and Do
The Chapel St. Pierre : A 16th century church, which was once used by fisherman for storage, now has murals added by Jean Cocteau in 1956-7 at his request. Open Wednesday through Sunday. Entrance 3 € for adults.
Eglise Saint Michel is a beautiful baroque church built in 1750
Port de la Darse: Filled with boats of all sizes, there is also a lighthouse and more great views of the marina and bay.
The open market takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays in the Jardin Francois Binon.
Rue Obscure
Rue Obscure: This covered street, whose name means “dark street”, was built in 1260 to protect troops from attack. Later, the city was built on top of it. The street was then used to store wine. You can walk through the street, which resembles a tunnel. It’s in the Old Town.
If you want to learn French and can spare a month in paradise, check into the Institut de Francais for a one-month immersion course in Villefranche.
Practical Tips
You can get to Villefranche-sur-Mer easily on the train or by car from Nice or Monaco (or Beaulieu, or Antibes.) All of these towns are great to visit. You can make Villefranche your base as you explore the area. Guided visits are available from April to October on Fridays at 10. Reservations required. 5 €. Check at the Tourist Bureau.
The best time to go is September or early June. Book hotels early, since there aren’t many. Or you can get an apartment rental, unless you’re doing a day trip.
Some Hotels in VIllefranche
The Welcome Hotel is easy to see since it’s on the waterfront.
Hotel de la Darse
Hotel le Provencal.
Parking
Parking Wilson (deck) or on-street paid parking on Rue de la Citadelle.
This colorful jewel fits right on your must-see list from the French Riviera!
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